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Chablis Vent d’Ange, Domaine Pattes Loup Thomas Pico 2019
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Thomas Pico started Pattes Loup in 2004 working on 2.5ha under the wing of his friends Alice and Olivier de Moor, with whom he runs the renowned wine fair Chai l’Un Chai l’Autre. The domaine takes its name after a vineyard planted by Thomas in the lieu-dit of Pattes-Loup (meaning wolf’s paw) which he inherited from his dear grandfather whom he was very close to.
Thomas initially worked as an employee at his family's Domaine de Bois d'Yver in Courgis and, following his grandfather’s death, managed to convince his father to stop using chemicals and convert their vineyards to organic, finally reaching certification in 2009. In an appellation where an overuse of herbicides and pesticides is unfortunately still the norm, Pattes Loup and its fastidiously tended low-yielding vines, happily living among a wide array of wildflowers and plants, feels like a world apart. He looks for full ripeness harvesting later than most, ferments and age in a variety of vessels and sizes (egg-shaped concrete, oak, stainless steel) allowing long élevage on lees to retain tension, texture and perfect balance. Low doses of SO2 are only added at racking and pre-bottling, and from 2018 the exact levels are specified on the labels.
There is a sense of vitality and density to the wines which can only come from Thomas' dedicated work in the vineyards and transparent winemaking.
This comes from three parcels (2ha) around Courgis: la Ménarde, les Malantes and Pattes Loup, hence the name of the domaine. The vines are 40yo, issued from a massale selection, and in a full harvest yields average just 43hh (60 permitted). This wine was aged for a minimum of 18 months, two thirds in stainless steel, one third in 7hl cement eggs. Yields were a plentiful 50hh in 2018 with the vines enjoying a warm and dry season and making up for the loss of previous vintages. There's much more depth of fruit in the 2018 which offers ripe grapefruit, hint of apricot and saline minerality on the finish. Total SO2 of 36mg/l.
Producer Domaine Pattes Loup - Thomas Pico
Origin Courgis, Yonne, Burgundy, France
Alcohol 13.5% ABV
Style Full body white
Bottle size 750ml
Winemaking Manual harvest. Indigenous yeast fermentation. Aged for 18months in staubess steek and cement. No filtration and no fining, little So2 added at bottling.
Notes Organic, Biodynamic , Natural