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I Nove Fratelli, Masseria del Pino 2020
Masseria del Pino
Federica and Cesare left their life in Catania in 2005 (where she worked as an archery teacher and he as an airline pilot) in search of a simple, peaceful, hard-working lifestyle and purchased this tiny, unique 1.7ha clos planted with 120-140yo vines in the Contrada del Pino. Located on the slopes of Mount Etna at 800m, uphill from Randazzo, this is the highest altitude at which nerello mascalese and cappucio can reliably and consistently ripen.
Viticulture here eschews herbicides, fungicides, pesticides but they don't follow any prescribed rules. The health of the vineyard is paramount. Winemaking is straight forward, grapes are currently destalked for the red and foot trodden in open vats (but from 2019 all their wines will be made from whole bunches), ageing takes place in old 500ltr barrels for 16 months and bottling is done with partial filtration (just the wine at the bottom of each barrel) and no added sulphur.
Made from 120 to 140yo vines on the ancient terraces of a north facing clos at 800m altitude above Randazzo, worked organically and tending the vines meticulously, Cesare and Federica bring in a minute yield averaging 14hh into their palmento (winery) and after destalking trod the grapes by foot in ancient vats made of volcanic basalt. An open-air fermentation begins, the cap is punched for a few days, then it’s not touched bar keeping the cap moist for the rest of the cuvaison, after which the wine is decanted off into one 300ltr and five 600ltr barrels, with the solids pressed and added, and the wine then remains until bottling after partial filtration 16 months later. These primitive techniques have changed little since vines first appeared in Contrada Pino in the 9th century, and one can imagine this is what the wine might have tasted like back then.
It is a profound Etna Rosso, very close to the grapes, richly flavoured with black cherry, balsamic spices, and a fresh-laid-tar suggestion often found in young Barolo but with a lovely acidity keeping everything in focus. Its gripping, yet silty-fine tannin is a trademark of wines from Contrada Pino and there is much more freshness and energy than you find in many Etna Rosso that weigh in at 15% or more.
Producer Masseria del Pino
Origin Randazzo, Etna, Sicily, Italy
Grapes 90% Nerello Mascalese, 10% Nerello Cappuccio
Vintage 2020
Alcohol 14% ABV
Style Medium body fragrant red
Bottle size 750ml
Winemaking Manual harvest, destemmed, fermented in open air vats, afted for about 16 months in barrels. Partially filtred, unfined, NO So2
Notes Natural, Organic